The old town, ten minutes down the lane

Lovran is one of the oldest settlements on this coast — the name comes from the laurel that still grows everywhere, and local legend seats the Roman statesman Agrippa here in the first century BC. What’s certain: by the Middle Ages this was a fortified harbour town, and the middle of it hasn’t changed shape since.

What we’d show you first

Walk in through Stubica, the old town gate, and get lost on purpose — it’s four lanes, you can’t stay lost long. The Church of St George in the middle square keeps late-Gothic frescoes; the defensive tower beside it is the town’s oldest guard. Finish at the harbour, where the fishing boats still outnumber the yachts.

From the harbour, the Lungomare starts — a seaside promenade that runs 12 km along the coast to Opatija and beyond, past the Secession-era villas that made this riviera famous a century ago. Flat the whole way, lit at night, and our favourite walk for working off dinner.